We wake too early.
I am almost universally unhappy to wake up. I have learned to simply be pleasant until I feel pleasant, which happens almost universally after about a half hour and a cup of coffee.
The Adventure of The Day begins with sea turtles.
We have parked our car on the marina seawall and made our way to the 65' catamaran that will be ferrying us to some prime snorkeling spot this morning. I am buzzing with excitement - sailing is one of my very favorite things. We join a small group of people standing on the seawall across from our slip to watch a giant green sea turtle munching on algae there. Two smaller turtles munch, too - each two feet across. I don't know why I'm so surprised to see that they look just like paintings of sea turtles. What a touristy thing to think.
We all file onto the boat, 22 people plus the crew and motor out from the marina. The man at the helm is the quintessential salty sea-captain. His leather skin and baggy clothes make him look just like a painting of a captain, too. His two brown crewmembers do his bidding without question. They clearly respect him, and so we do, too.
Not 15 minutes into our journey across the channel, someone shouts something and we all turn to see the splash of a humpback whale that has just breached high above the water. Moments later, two whales erupt out of the water into the air and slam back on their great sides, about 200 yards from our boat. We all scramble to take a few blurry pictures, awestruck by the sight of two 30-ton mammals playing "who can jump higher". Even the captain slips his phone out of his pocket to record - it's such a rare sight to see two whales breaching.
The wind picks up, and so do the waves slapping the underside of the trampoline between the catamaran's hulls at the front of the boat. Most of the passengers scurry toward the protected cabin, but not me. I know that going in the cabin in such choppy water is a great way to get seasick. That, and I am a gleeful 6-year-old again - belly-laughing at the ocean while lying on my belly on my dad's old wooden sailboat. The roll and heave of the hull against a full sail, the salt spray on my nose, and the humming of the halyards in a stiff wind is pretty much paradise for me. I wind my fingers in the trampoline's lacings and plant my chin on the aluminum brace of the catamaran and howl back at the restless sea. My soul is restless, too.
The Quintessential Captain turns us away from our original destination, as the wind has made it too dangerous to make the crossing. We head for what's described as a turtle-cleaning station. All the local turtles come to this specific spot, and a crew of cleaner wrasse nibble bits of dead skin and parasites off the turtles' flippers. Turtle Spa Day. I was looking forward to snorkeling in the Molokini crater, but really any snorkeling will do for me.
We are not disappointed. After the initial gasping shock of slightly chilly water, and a couple of choking false-starts with my mask, I forget my anxiety. There are schools of striped convict tang, fat black triggerfish with their electric blue trim, clownish yellow tang, iridescent parrotfish and the tiny polka-dotted boxfish. And turtles!!! They really do glide into a single spot between two rocks and raise their fins to be cleaned. As soon as one turtle departed, another would wander in. I think we counted 7 big green turtles cruising around the area. Great shoals of japanese tourists on pool noodles snapped photo after photo with their big clear waterproof cameras. I wished I had a camera to take a turtle picture, but there are so many paintings and pictures of them anyway - mine wouldn't be any different. So I swam on, unencumbered by trappings or equipment - trying to keep moving so I'd be warm enough to stay in the water.
I finally hoist myself up the catamaran's stairs when my toes go numb from the cold. 78-degree water is warm, but not warm enough for my 98-degree body to keep going for more than about an hour. We lunch and catch one more dip in before sailing back into the marina.
We spend the afternoon shopping in Lahaina - all of the painted shells and brightly silkscreened t-shirts blaring "I WENT TO MAUI" hide a couple of small, worthwhile shops. One held a print of an orchid that I loved, and another was littered with shark's teeth and antique compasses. This tiny beach town reminds me of other tiny beach towns - a festive veneer covers a quietly desperate dependence on tourist money. Most places selling souvenirs: "proof" you really were there, that it wasn't all just a dream of paradise. I see so few people at the sales counters, and wonder who it is that really buys most of this crap.
Dinner of the most delicious scallops I have ever eaten is cut short by our evening entertainment plans. We hurry out of the restaurant to catch an Uber to the next town, unaware of the situation that was about to unfold. Dr. Pops sits in the front seat, and Ducky and Dear and I pile in the back. We're a little tipsy and already giggling. The tiny haole driver lady makes polite conversation while I try to hold back my laughter. You see, Dr. Pops is not a fan of Christmas music. True to his grouchy veneer, he detests Christmas Cheer in all of its forms. We have happened to hop in the one Uber in town that is festooned with Christmas crap, and when he huffed quietly at the Rudolph on the dashboard, we found this hysterical. I get stink-eye from the driver in the rear view as I try to hold in my snickering. I don't mean to mock her decorations, but we have fallen deep into a giggle loop from which there was to be no salvation. I hold my breath and try to play with my phone, only to be met with catty texts from my seatmates. We all quietly shake, tears rolling down our faces. Oblivious, Dr. Pops rolls his window down to take in the night air. "My antler!" cries the driver, only she's from the east coast so it's "Moy antlah!" "You've lost moy antlah!"
I look over to her side of the car, where a plastic and faux-fur antler is closed tightly in the window.
In addition to a christmas banner, blinking Rudolph and tiny lighted christmas tree, the car had had antlers. In rolling down his window, Dr. Pops had sent one antler bouncing down the Lahaina highway behind us. "You know, Blitzen only had one antler," he rapidly quips, hoping to pacify her. "We have to go back!" she shrieks, "they don't make them like that anymore!"
In the back seat, we're unable to control ourselves. I ask, "do you decorate for every holiday?" And dissolve into hysterics as she swings a sharp left to go back and get the lost decoration. I'm quite sure she is going to find her antler and dump us all out on the side of the road.
After finding her fuzzy car ornament lying between the lanes and bustling back into the car, she is relieved. "There," she sighs, "all back to normal." More catty texts in the back seat debate the definition of "normal" as she continues the ride without comment. She deposits us unceremoniously at our destination where we cackle and snigger our way inside.
We take in an evening of music with some wonderful slack-key guitar and ukulele players. Dr. Pops has been following these musicians for years, and has made a fan out of me for sure. I loved the twangy sound of their 12-stringed guitars. Two beautiful hula dancers brought tears to my eyes as they danced the stories of life on an upcountry farm, and of brilliant Hawaiian sunsets. I felt a sharp pain of regret that I have not spent more time with my grandmother. My sweet Gram taught hula in the 50's on O'ahu. Now that she is near 90 and losing her memories and faculties - the hula dances she taught remain clear in her mind. I will always cherish the time I have gotten to spend with her: hearing her stories of island life, and watching her lovely hula hands mimic the rain coming from the clouds or the ocean waves on the sand. At the end of the night, when Slack Key greats George Kahumoku and Sonny Lim led three younger 'uke players in a jam session - we were all mesmerized. Their harmonies and uniquely Hawaiian sound was wonderful.
Our heads nodding, we traipse back to the condo and collapse into bed. I count off the things I've seen and done in two days in Hawaii: whales, sailing, snorkeling, live music, fresh seafood and a grand sunset.
This is a full life.